Norwegian Coastal Voyages' new Millennium-class ship M.V. Finnmarken has the potential to rival the great cruise ships plying Norwegian waters... but Holland America she's not.

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© Bart de Boer 2002

The public rooms of the ship are less utilitarian in nature (except for the several meeting rooms on board,) designed instead for aesthetic pleasure. And beautiful they are in an understated but pleasing way. Although bright colors are used throughout, and although the theme of the ship is Art Nouveau-meets-Art Deco, there is nothing gasp-worthy nor cringe-worthy in any of her lounges, dining venues, or corridors.

This ship, unlike the others in the Norwegian Coastal fleet, has a cruise-ship style pool and hot tub, brilliantly designed and under cover at the aft of Deck 7. Also in that same area are large, comfortable his and hers saunas, complete with aft-facing portholes so one misses nothing on this view-laden trip. Norwegian Coastal Voyages' message is clear: This unique voyage, on this beautiful ship, is an inviting alternative to the major cruise line offerings.

But is it?

While it's true that the M.V. Finnmarken is a beautiful vessel, and while it's true that the cruise itself is unique and indeed part of the fine history of The Hurtigruten, there are several distinct differences between a cruise-line cruise and that offered by Norwegian Coastal Voyages.

Hurtigruten, which means "fast route," is part of the highway system of western Norway and comprises several ferries and ships that make the journey between the cities of Kirkenes in the north to Bergen in the south. The vessels include car decks for those who drive to the ship and debark in another city, storage areas for provisions to be deposited in the cities and ports along the route, lounge areas, bars and cafés for the day-only passengers, and a full array of shore excursions for both short-term and what the line calls "round-trip" guests. There is a full dining room for guests who purchase a food plan, with buffet breakfast and lunch and an evening meal that is served banquet style.

During mealtimes there is certainly no shortage of food nor of variety in the buffets. Breakfast includes an amazing array of fruit, fish, cheeses, breads, muffins, cereals and a few standard hot items. The lunch buffet includes shell fish, several pots of roe, cheeses, salads, vegetables, hot meats and a choice of desserts. Both meals include juices and coffee. Supper is a formal sit-down affair; all of the waitstaff bring the same dishes out at once, rather than cruise-ship style where individual groups get their meals served course-by-course. Supper meals alternate between fish and meat. While the food on board is hardly gourmet quality, it is quite good and nicely prepared.

One of the major flaws in this regard is the lack of coffee or tea, snacks or fruit between meals. Most cruise lines go overboard with their dining options; I am certainly not advocating adopting that standard, but it seems to me that the price of the trip should include -at the very least- coffee when you want it. I drink a lot of coffee and I found it disconcerting to have to pay NOK18 (approximately $2.50 USD) for a tiny cup of instant (Nescafé Gull,) and NOK13 for a refill, between mealtimes, from the various bars and snack shops on board the ship.

Each cabin does have a small refrigerator, so one can purchase snacks and cold drinks ashore and have them at hand; unless you have a coffee pot with you, you are stuck purchasing the little cups of instant.

There is no room service on these ships.

In fact, there is little service of any kind, another distinguishing difference between the Hurtigruten experience and that of a leisure cruise ship.

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