The Regatta, first of three ships in the Oceania line to be launched, was purchased from the defunct Renaissance Cruises company when it folded in 2001. Two other ships, the Insignia (which will be starting service in April, 2004) and the Nautica (2005) comprise Oceania's fleet. All of the ships carry a maximum of 680 passengers, have a variety of stateroom types, and all are decorated in a clubby English Manor style. Minor changes to design elements will distinguish each ship.

My stateroom, which Oceania cheerfully calls a suite, was a B-level standard veranda on deck six. Although smallish, it was well laid-out, with ingeniously designed storage space, a queen bed dividable into two twins, a small two-seater sofa, desk, coffee table, two night stands, closet with both hanging space and drawers, large television, room safe and very small bathroom with shower. The color scheme was a pleasing French blue. Dark wood cupboards, desk and endtables added an air of elegance. The veranda, newly decked in teak, was surprisingly deep and comfortable.

As I unpacked I could think of nothing else but snuggling my jet-lagged body under the down comforter on Oceania's trademarked "Tranquility Bed," but I resisted, opting instead for a shower and a quick walk around the ship before sail-away.

It isn't often that I get to wax poetic about cruiseline toiletries, so I will indulge myself here. Oceania has selected pricey, exclusive, custom-designed soaps, shampoo, lotion and bath gel that would fit nicely in the bathroom of any six-star resort in the world. Large stylized bottles are used for the liquids, big tear-drop shaped soaps for the shower and a smaller soap is placed at the sink. The soaps have a fresh citrusy scent, the liquids a clean, subtle scent of sea and sky.

As tiny as the shower is in these staterooms, the sense of luxury is nonetheless apparent. It doesn't stop at the soaps: The towels, big, thick, with a deep nap, are not the usual cruiseline linens, not even for "premium" lines. After I showered I wanted more than ever to get under that down comforter and just drift off, but I instead headed to explore the ship, look at The White Cliffs, and be on deck for sail-away.